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How to Determine Hair Type on Natural Hair

By Jenell — June 29, 2012

In the natural hair community hair typing is a popular discussion. Knowing your hair type is very useful in understanding why your hair responds to certain products and why it doesn’t respond to others.  Knowing your hair type is very useful in understanding which hair styles are best for your hair.  Knowing your hair type is very useful in understanding how to care for your hair.  Here are 3 basic things I’ve learned about type 4 hair in comparison to type 3 hair.

Gel

Women with 4abc coily/kinky hair as myself, find very little success when using gel to define our curls. While type 4′s can use gel, it is much better used for slicking and smoothing, than for curl definition. Watch this video of what happened to my type 4 hair when I tried defining my hair with gel. Get ready to laugh. LOL

Women with 3abc coily/curly hair, find great success when using gel. Her curl pattern is brought to life and held into place. Many type 3 curlies don’t even need to use gel in order to see their true curl definition because her hair has a very defined curl pattern, naturally.

Hair Styles

Women with 4abc coily/kinky hair as myself, have very little curl definition and lot’s of frizz.  Loose styles (afros and twist outs) don’t maintain moisture as well as braided or twisted styles do.  Type 4 hair also holds twists and braids with ease, no barrettes or bands are needed at the ends of the hair. Check out some of my favorite hair styles here.

Women with 3abc coily/curly hair have lot’s of curl definition. Loose styles can maintain moisture, but braided and twist styles don’t hold as easily, tending to loosen and become frizzy sooner.

Hair Care

Women with 4abc coily/kinky hair, have to moisturize frequently! When we don’t our hair is greatly effected by the lack of moisture.  For me I find success in moisturizing my hair every 3-4 days, but there are many who must moisturize on a daily basis.  Oils and butters absorb into the hair strand very easily.  Less washing is recommended to maintain moisture into the hair.  Check out my regimen, especially if you’re struggling with dry hair.

Women with 3abc coily/curly hair don’t need as much moisturizing, but all hair needs moisturizing and type 3 curlies are no exception.  The difference when it comes to type 3′s, is that if she moisturizes too often or if she uses heavy moisturizers, her hair will be heavy, weighed down and oily.  Frequent washing may be needed to control the moisture levels in her hair, this is especially true for type 3a.

My Hair

As I’ve stated time and time again, my hair is type 4.  Check out this video to see  what my Type 4 hair looks like both wet and dry. Scroll to about 2 minutes and about 15 seconds. Enjoy!

To find your hair type Check out these links by Naturally Curly

Are you a Type 4, like Me?
Are you a Type 3-kinky?
Are you a Type 3-curly?
Are you a Type 2-wavy?

 

Source¹ NaturallyCurly Source² LOIS Hair Type System

 

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About Author

Jenell Stewart, formally known as BlakIzBeautyful is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of Kinky Curly Coily Me. Jenell has a MS in special education and dedicates her time to educating and uplifting women with kinky, curly, coily hair. She big chopped on March 26, 2010 and currently lives in Brooklyn, NY.

View all Jenell posts.
  • Chicago Chica

    This is enlightening.  I don't subscribe to  hair typing because I think that it further divides naturals.  However, I know the importance of knowing your hair type in order to use the best products for your hair.  After I reading this, I've discovered that my hair is actually 3c/4a.  My curl pattern is easily defined with gel.  No matter what I do with my twist-outs, my hair does get frizzy.  I will have to take another look at the products in my stash.

  • JenellyBean

    Thanks for sharing

  • Growtotheflow

    Hey Jenell, I’m signed up for your castor oil challenge and was wondering if I get bonus points for you using my picture :-) that’s me in the photo up top in the grey.

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

       OMG!!! Britney!!! Is this really you!!!!
      No way! This is sooooo amazing. I love you!
      You totally get bonus points!!!

      • Growtotheflow

        Yup, it’s me lol. You are an absolute sweetheart and your site is awesome! I’m happy to see my curls go to good use ;-)

  • Mooodi

    Why use the ACV rinse??  I am new to natural hair and still learning

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Hey love,

      We have a great post on ACV in our “mistress in the Kitchen” section. You can find this section by hovering over our “HAIR” menu at the top of the site.
      ACV can be used as a clarifying hair treatment. Basically, it gets your hair squeaky clean by removing excess buildup from products and the environment.

  • Estelle

    This was very good. If it is possible I think I am a mix of 4a and 4b, so we have a combo of products to keep it healthy. I am glad I finally found products that work. The product trial period was no fun because my hair looked so dry and messy. Now I have a great shine and looks great. I am glad I found you on youtube, because you kept me motivated in that transition stage. Thanks.

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Hey Estelle!

      Yep it definitely possible to have more than one hair type on your head. Many women do.
      I’m so happy you found me bc helping women is what I am all about. Don’t be a stranger.
      Muah!

  • http://www.facebook.com/mrs.stepurcookiesup Deandra Gordon

    i am confused

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Hey love, what is confusing you?

      • http://www.facebook.com/mrs.stepurcookiesup Deandra Gordon

        my hair is tight and thick and curly . But some arctiles say its 4a and others say its 4b . It spiral and springs back every time but other pieces in the middle are z shaped patterns . i don’t know what type to call it .but my hair is easily defined by just the right hair butter. maybe my hair is just different

        • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

          Sounds like you have a mix of 4a and 4b which is very common.

          What is most important is that you learn what your hair needs and how to take care of it.

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1446035977 Cathy Miller

    Hello Jenell!  Do you ever use regular conditioner as a leave in?  My daughter has hair like yours, and i left in her regular conditioner and it finally doesn’t look dry!  Also, i saw you posted an updo on Facebook today.  Do you have a tutorial?  Thanks so much for all you do to share your knowledge!! :)

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Hey Cathy,

      I don’t use regular conditioner as a leave in mainly because I have great leave in conditioners and I feel nervous about leaving a product that says to rinse out. Shea Moisture has conditioners that say you can rinse them out or leave them in, so for their conditioners I leave them in.

      But I love that you tested this out on your daughters hair and got great results. Our journeys are so unique that we all get to try new things.

      As for the picture I posted on FB I just tried the style out this morning so there isnt a tutorial just yet, but give me a few days okie??

      Cathy, you are so very welcome love, I am very very very happy to have loyal readers as yourself who participate on this site and on the facebook etc. I love getting to chat with you all!

  • Kim MCIVER

    do you have to cut all ur hair off to go natural even if u haven’t had a perm in over a year

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      In order to become natural you have to cut off ALL of your relaxed hair. You can chop them all off now. Or transition for a while and then chop them off later.

    • http://www.facebook.com/latisha.linder.7 Latisha Linder

      You can continue to transition for as long as you want and slowly cut the relaxed ends off, as the new growth grows out… that way you won’t have to do a drastic cut all at once.

      • http://www.tastyberri.blogspot.com/ blessed_coils

        I tried to transition and I did for 4-5 months, and then I was just really so ready to Big Chop. How do you manage both textures?
        Subject: [kinkycurlycoilyme] Re: How to Determine Hair Type on Natural Hair

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1356860384 Tee Equality Martin

    I’ve noticed there’s no info on your page for folks wyth Loc’s!! We too are interested in the upkeep of our Dreds!!  Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks!!

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Hey love,

      We can definitely increase our info on locs. Give us some time.

  • LiLi JB

    What if you have two or even three different textures? How do I treat that. In the front of my hair it is 4ab (definitely in the 4 family) and from the crown back its 3 family. How should I handle my hair!? Frustrated to say the least :)

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Many of us have various hair textures on our head. You will have to try things out and evaluate the results. What is frustrating you right now?

  • fantasia1drive

    I’m having a really hard time determining what my hair type is. If possible, can you check out my video to help me determine my curl patter? My youtube video is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTBPJrR6KjI&feature=plcp

    I would appreciate a reply if you have the chance in my inbox on youtube

    Thanks

  • Danielle

    I just did my big chop and hope to learn so much more from your blog and YouTube videos! (dsmileybface on YouTube)

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Congrats!! How do you feel??

      • Danie B

        I am still adjusting to this new hair stage. My hair is constantly dry and it’s too short to do anything with it. (I’ll be two months post next Friday). I have joined your castor oil challenge so I hope to gain more length so that my hair can be twisted and styled. My hair is a type 4 just like yours, as far as a/b/c goes, I am not sure.

  • ChrissyDee

    i m am mixed Indian (mulatto) and my hair is thick and straight with a slight curl, it is not frizzy at all but resistant to style. It is difficult to determine my hair type..

    Can you please help me.

  • Ohsodamsel

    should people with 4c hair use the same products and have the same hair technique as someone with 4b coily type hair? I have been following your channel and blogs for over a year now, and have bought some of the products you use on your hair, because I admire your hair growth and definition. I know have grow at different rates, but I have come to believe my have is of a different texture an or definition then yours. If you will just shed a little light on this please, because I am very discouraged in contemplation of giving up my natural journey do to the failed success.

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Hey love,

      Women in the Type 4 family can use the same things. How your hair will respond to the of course, is very personal. All hair need moisture.

  • Ohsodamsel

    I also have you heard of Naked treatment? I had this treatment done on my hair and now I feel like it has set my natural hair journey back because of the invasive use of heat. Do you think I need to big chop and start over with my hair.

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      I’ve never heard of the naked treatment. Care to explain?

  • Tamika Major

    I learn so much from this site!! My hair is definitely 4c, its dry and has little to no curl definition. I am learning what it needs but am struggling with the curl definition.

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      That’s awesome!
      Unfortunately, it will be difficult to enhance natural curl definition on 4c hair. Although it can be done. Most women with type 4b and 4c hair, find great success in achieving curl definition from twist outs and braid outs. Have you seen my tutorials?

  • jobeth

    If not gel then what should I use??

    I am a 4b/c. I have a pretty good hair regime but I use eco styler gel. Sometime I have great success and other times I could break out my clippers and my favorite dye and let it all fall. I’m wondering what products I can put in rotation when my eco styler fails me. I’ve found that I have to be versatile with my hair and continue to mold with it so I’m just rollin :) chao!

    • http://kinkycurlycoilyme.com/ Jenell : BlakIzBeautyful

      Curly puddings might work, but you can also try twist outs and braid outs.

    • tiffany avery

      You really should try adding raw honey to your gel (i use eco styler) will help give the gel a better, longer hold. You can get the honey from the Vitamin Shoppe. Add 1/3 honey to your gel.

  • napa valley

    is it possible to have type 2 hair mixed with type 4 hair? Because i see u’s z’s and s’s in different parts of my hair and sometimes on the same strand.

  • http://www.facebook.com/ollicia.richard Ollicia Sunshine Richard

    I did the big chop but i still dont know what my curl pattern is….

  • ChrissyDee

    Hi,
    I am still a bit confused as to what type of hair I have. According to your “Hair type” guide it does not fall into any category. However it comes closest to Type 2a, but I am not white I am Black and my hair is not fine as described in your guide. It is very thick and even more coarse along the hairline to the point of breaking. Also it is very very dry especially since I started transitioning. Its been six months now.

    Please help me determine my hair type

  • http://www.naturallycurly.com/ blessed_coils

    I definitely love your twist outs…amazing definition. I have curly envy… :-(

  • K Gisselle

    Hi,
    I am new to the natural hair world. I have been perming my hair for a long time and I am ready to do something different. I’m ready to go natural. My last perm was back in November. How would you recommend I go about this transition.
    P.S I washed my hair myself this past weekend and it was a bit of a challenge.
    Thanks so much

  • Briana Porter

    I believe I’m coily springy,but I’m not certain. I tried a twist out on my hair using eco styler gel, my hair was so hard and crunchy i thought it was going to break apart lol… I’m still having trouble finding my go to product.

  • truthisurnotthatcool .

    Hi.I really have difficulty finding my hair texture. All I have to do is put some elasta qp leave-in and softee shea butter and my curls are pretty much defined, but they are pretty small. The small the curls I hear is 4c, but ppl say 4c isn’t defined. I need help????? And my edges don’t really get that baby hair look with gel, just some of it. With gel it’s superly shiny. lol

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